The Whaling Issue

Historical whaling records demonstrate that Iceland has an infamous history of over-exploitation of whales. Between 1883 and 1939, Iceland killed 2,294 blue whales, 1,541 fin whales, 213 humpbacks, 98 sperm whales, 10 sei whales and 13,502 more unspecified whales (mostly blue and fin whales).
In 1946, Iceland became a founding member of the International Whaling Commission (IWC), the body established to regulate whaling and conserve whales, created by the 1946 International Convention for the Regulation of Whaling (ICRW). However, the IWC’s regulation of whaling for its first four decades was a litany of mismanagement and competitive over-exploitation. From 1948, Iceland caught a further 17,078 whales.
Finally, in 1982, following years of over exploitation and poor regulation of whale stocks by many countries including Iceland, the IWC agreed an indefinite moratorium on commercial whaling. Iceland opposed the ban but unlike Norway and Japan, did not lodge an Objection to the decision. Iceland stopped commercial whaling just before the ban came into effect in 1986.
However, Iceland, like Japan, saw the potential offered by a clause in the ICRW that permits whales to be killed for scientific research. In 1986, Iceland began to engage in so-called "scientific whaling" in order to avoid the moratorium on commercial whaling. By 1989 it had killed 292 fin whales and 70 sei whales for so-called ‘research’. Despite claims that it was conducting important science on these animals, more than 15 years later, most of the data collected from them has still not been published. However, a significant proportion of meat from the whales caught was exported to Japan for profit, illustrating the clear commercial motivation of this operation.
In 2002, after two failed attempts to rejoin the IWC with a reservation against the moratorium on commercial whaling, Iceland was finally, but controversially, readmitted at a special IWC meeting in October 2002. In its reservation, Iceland stated that it would not commence commercial whaling before 2006. However, it did not rule out restarting scientific whaling.
In October 2006, the Icelandic government issued licenses for a commercial whale hunt in addition to the continuing scientific program. Over the twelve-month period ending in August 2007, Icelandic whalers have been authorized by the Icelandic government to hunt and sell 30 minke whales and 9 fin whales. Iceland broke the IWC moratorium on commercial whaling on 21 October 2006 after Icelandic whalers killed a Fin Whale. Iceland has claimed an exemption to the moratorium through the reservation made in 2002.
25 nations delivered a formal diplomatic protest to the Icelandic government on 1 November concerning resumed commercial whaling. The protest was led by the UK and signed by nations including the US, Australia, Brazil, France, Germany, Finland and Sweden.

Egill Ólafsson

This sunday, we (Vox feminae) are having a concert at the Catholic Church in Reykjavík at 16h. It´s a charity concert and we will accompany Egill Ólafsson - a great Icelandic singer and a character with a lot of charisma.

Egill Ólafsson is an icelandic freelance artist of a versatility rarely met with.

He is well known to the international audience as an actor, singer and composer.

He studied at The Reykjavík Conservatory singing and composition and has taken master classes with Per Raben, Jukka Linkola, Pierre Dörge, Jo Estill, Oren Brown, Thorsten Föllinger to mention a few.

As an actor he has apeared in almost 30 feature films mostly in leading roles as well as in several TV - films.
He has also been as a principal in many theatre plays and musicals. Just recently he did Fred Graham in Kiss Me Kate, at the City Theatre in Reykjavik. He has done Sky Masterson in Guys And Dolls, Jean Valjean in Les Miserable (he joined the 10th anniversary concert of Les Mis at the Royal Albert Hall 1996) Peron in Evita and Escamillo in Carmen Negra for The Icelandic Opera.

His songwriters output contains four musicals, music for eight films, six plays, two ballets, three albums of solo pieces and two albums of arrangements of Icelandic folk music. He has also worked with Icelands most popular bands through the years, Studmenn and The Icelandic Hobgoblins (Thursaflokkurinn) both as a songwriter and singer.

The year 2000 Egill worked with Björn Thoroddsen and his trio. The same year Reykjavik (capital of Iceland) was one of Europes Cultural Cities and Egill and Björn's Trio travelled to Canada, USA, Russia, Finland, Spain and Norway because of this, representing Icelandic music.

Elves in Modern Iceland

REYKJAVIK - The trouble started last month when the bulldozers kept breaking down during work on a new road. The mysterious accidents in front of one particular stone brought work to a standstill at the construction site at Ljarskógar, about three hours drive north of Reykjavik. The contractors solved the problem in an unorthodox way but one which is fairly common on Iceland. They accepted an offer from a medium to find out if the land was populated by elves and, if so, were they causing the disruptions.

"Our basic approach is not to deny this phenomenon," Birgir Gudmundsson, an engineer with the Iceland Road Authority. "We tread carefully. There are people who can negotiate with the elves, and we make use of that."

About 10 percent of Icelanders believe in supernatural beings and another 10 percent deny them, but the remaining 80 percent on this windswept North Atlantic outpost either have no opinion or refuse to rule out their existence, a survey shows.

The medium, a woman named Regina, said the elves told her they no longer lived in the stone but nearby. However, they wanted workers to remove it in a dignified manner and not just try to blow it up.

The supernatural never seems far away in Iceland, a wild moonscape of volcanoes, geysers and lava rocks looking like trolls petrified by the first rays of sunshine on a frosty morning. This is the land where Vikings, tired of serving Scandinavian kings, settled more than a thousand years ago.

Erla said elves were not always at fault when roadworkers ran into unexpected problems. "You cannot blame it all on the elves," she said. "Don't believe everything you hear. People are good at bungling things themselves."

Being clairvoyant can apparently be an eerie experience. "When I walk down the street I can't tell who is alive and who is dead of the people I meet," Erla said. "I must touch them to find out if they are alive. I can meet myself on the highway 20 years ago. I can easily look back a thousand years." -> this nevertheless sound a bit too esoteric to me :o)

Elves were first briefly mentioned in Iceland's mediaeval Saga literature -- filled with pithy, epic tales of the days when a man never left his home without his sword. The Icelandic language, old Norse, has helped the survival of folklore because it has been preserved virtually unscathed by the passing of time. Icelanders still read the old Sagas in their original version without trouble.

Iceland's President Vigdis Finnbogadottir once said her people loved telling stories although few really believed in folklore. "But to lose it would be to lose a jewel," she said. Arni Bjoernsson, head of the Ethnological department of the National Museum of Iceland, said popular belief in elves, gnomes, dwarfs, trolls and other beings often reflected the simple farmer's dream of a better world alongside his own.

"The "huldufolk," or the hidden people, live a better life than human beings," said Arni, whose interviews with fellow Icelanders have produced a book listing 500 supernatural beings. "Their houses are nice and clean. They often possess gold and other valuables. This is the wishful thinking of the poor."

But Arni said Icelanders, whose first city was founded less than 200 years ago, were less ashamed than other people in Europe to admit to superstitious beliefs. "Icelanders are sceptical people, but they are also humble and they do not want to rule anything out," he said. "I am a scientist. I am sorry to disappoint you but I have never seen an elf or a troll. But who am I to exclude their existence?" -> but this quote really has character!

At Ljarskogar, however, all seemingly came clear after road authorities followed Regina's advice and removed the stone with due dignity. "As far as I know, everything has been peaceful since then," said Birgir.

Religion II

Christianity
In Iceland, the sagas provide a great deal of information about the early religious state. Before the official conversion by government decree, there was quite a few Christians living in the country, most of them immigrants from mainland Britain and Orkney.
In the late 10th century, Denmark peacefully became Christian, but Norway's conversion was quite another story. In 994, during the siege of London, the ruthless Viking prince Olaf Tryggvason, who aspired to the throne of Norway, accepted the new religion. Upon his return home, he usurped power and mercilessly threatened and tortured his subjects into wholesale conversion. He then turned to his next conversion project, Iceland, where several people who resisted were declared criminals and sentenced to execution. However, some Icelandic Christians successfully pleaded for another chance for their pagan countryfolk.
Traditionally, the date of the decree that officially converted Iceland to Christianity has been given as 1000, but research has determined that it probably occurred in 999 and was a political decision. In the Icelandic Alþhing (parliament) the Christians and pagans had been polarising into two radically opposite factions, threatening to divide the country politically if not geographically. In the session of 999, Þorgeir the Law-speaker appealed for moderation on both sides in the interest of national unity.
Today, as in mainland Schandinavia, Iceland officially belongs to the Protestant Lutheran Church.

Religion I

Norse Religion
Most people are familiar with the pantheon of Norse deities. Although there are many gods and godlike beings, the Norse trinity consisted of Þór, to most Icelanders the kong of the gods; Óðinn, the god of war and poetry; and Freyr, the god of fertility and sensuous pleasure.
Óðinn was the patron god of the Viking hordes and the skáld (court poet). He was traditionally depicted as a brooding and intimidating presence, the one who doled out both victory in battle and literary talent.
On the Scandinavian mainland, Óðinn was the highest-ranking deity, but in Iceland, Greenland and the Faroes - which were less concerned with war and raiding - Þór took precedence.
This rowdy and rather slow-minded god of the common people controlled thunder, wind, storm, and natural disaster, and fended off malevolent outsiders. He was depicted as a burly, red-haired, red-bearded dolt who rumbled through the heavens in a goat-drawn chariot.
Freyr and his twin sister Freyja, the children of the sea god Njörður, served as the god and goddess of fertility and sexuality. Freyr was the one who brought springtime with its romantic implications to both the human and animal world and was in charge of the perpetuation of all species.

Icelandic parking customs

If Italy holds the world record in being the nation with the worst car driver - the statistics definitely forgot to have a look at this tiny little island in the middle of the north Atlantic. Icelanders are much worse! BELIVE ME! Underneath I'm leaving some photos of the Icelandic parking customs. Nobody takes notice of parking meters or parking lots. You drive into town, park the car (if possible half in the street or on the pavement). I've never seen more damaged cars anywhere else. You hardly find a car in Reykjavík that doesn't have any dented fender or scatches all over. Amazingly if you observe the people: they just park the car outside the building they want to go in - for example a restaurant and they don't even think one minute that the pavement in front of this building is now being blocked by their car! Unbelievable! Another phenomenon is the custom to stop and chat if you meet a friend. Lately I was walking down Njarðargata, a fairly busy road, when a car suddenly started blowing the horn at me and stopped so abruptly that the car behind nearly crashed into it. Inside I found Hjalti and Gunni who started chatting with me for about 10 min. blocking the whole traffic. I felt clearly uncomfortable, being the cause for this blockage and tried to "get rid" of my two friends as I was going to see them later that day at work. But the two continued to chat happily about different stories while the other cars waited. Crazy world!

Vox Feminae

Not having any access to classical music in my everyday life here in Reykjavík I started to feel rather uneasy about it and all I wanted was a piano to be able to play. At work I heard a split part of a conversation of Helga M. about a concert of her choir. I approached her with the question whether she knew a good choir that I could join. She send me off to talk to Hjalti who's mother is a vocal teacher and singer. Hjalti gave me Margrét's phonenumber and a few days later I stood for the first time within the walls of Domus Vox - Margrét's music school. After a short audition I was accepted to join Vox feminae - Margrét's best choir as she proudly emphasised. I had not really an idea what I was going into. By now I have attended all the rehearsals - the choir is really on a very high standard. We sing pieces of Vivaldi, Brahms, Icelandic traditional songs and as preparation for the Christmas concert in Hallgrimskirkja Chrismas carols. The women in the choir have taken me in very warmly. It is hard work - there are many extra rehearsals and a very full program as Margrét is a well-known person in Iceland and Vox feminae the best women's choir in Reykjavík at the moment. Appart from the Chrismas concert we have auditions for the new CD and DVD, we are invited to Holland for an international choir festival, etc. Again I was very lucky to be able to join this choir!

Anna's Stables

Yesterday I accompanied Anna to her workplace. As Anna is a very good horse person and she has internationally worked with many good Icelandic horse trainers it was not hard for her to get a job with Atli Guðmundsson. Atli has a beautiful stable at Hafnarfjörður and is working with 10 horses at the moment. As he is abroad every weekend, training Icelandic horses all around the world and giving courses Anna is taking care and training the horses here.
Atli has already won the Landsmóti (the most important even for Icelandic horses) a few times and his stables are full of trophies and prices - quite impressive to see!
It was also interesting to help Anna work with the young horses as the method of riding and training the Icelandic horse so differs from what I know from the mainland. Atli has a beautiful bunch of well-bred examples standing in his stables! WOW!

105 -> 101

Finally - I've managed to move from 105 Reykjavik to 101 Reykjavik... well not yet but soon! As most of you know I have not been too happy with my room at this guesthouse. It's not really fun to be paying so much rent and to share 2 showers and 1 kitchen with 18 other people! Soooo, I started organizing... I had all my spies out to look for rooms for me: Gunni, Hjalti, Guffi, Dammy etc. they were all having their ears open for a room for me... But frankly it is not easy to find something cheap downtown.
BUT miracles do happen: As Sascha and Benni are moving home in december, Anna and me put all our charm together and convinced the landlord to rent the house to us (ok - I admit, we didn't need our charm ;o))
So I'm moving out of Þverholt 20 on november 30th.

NOTA BENE: Þverholt 20, 105 Reykjavík only valid til Nov. 30th!!!

From Dec. 1st - 18th I will be largely homeless. Anna is nice enough to be moving to Saschas place so most of that time I will be living next to Hallgrimskirkja at Njarðargata 37. But as Anna's friend from Sweden comes for a visit for a few days I will also crash on Gunni's sofa for a few nights - so that will be a bit of a Gypsy experience for me. What don't you do to save a month rent.
Whatever it takes, everything is worth waiting for the new home at Framnesvegur 36, 101 Reykjavik.
It is this purple house close to the seaside and in the western part of Reykjavík (untill now I was living in the eastern part). This house is now the home to Sascha and Benni. It belongs to a family living in Isafjörður that rents it out to student :o)
It has a small garden with grill, a nice kitchen that I won't have to share with 18 people but only with Anna. There are two bedrooms, a big bathroom AND a livingroom with TV and 90 channels :o) and a eating/reading room! What could be better? It's like paradise! I shouldn't forget that to this house also comes the fact that Anna has bought a Subaru (4-wheel-drive!) - what more can I possibly need? :o)

horse riding

Day: Friday afternoon
Time: 13:20
Participants: 7 (4 Germans, 2 Swiss, 1 Swedish)
Action: 3.5h of horse riding

After a quick lunch we all gathered outside Benni's and Sascha's house waiting for our ride from the Laxnes Horse Farm that is situated in Mosfellbærsdalur only 20min. out of Reykjavik. The guy on the phone told us that he will pick us up at 13h20. So at 13h20 we were all standing outside in the rain, most of us rather nervous as they never sat on a horse before. After 45min of waiting Anna and me decided to call up the farm as even for Icelandic conditions 45min. of waiting is not that normal. The reply on the phone: "Oh shit, I absolutely forgot all about you! - I'll pick you up in 20min." So the 7 of us got back inside and enjoyed a cup of hot coffee. The nervousness disappeared and 30min. later we were sitting in the silver minibus heading north of the capital.
Winter has come over Iceland and the colours outside the city were beautiful. The grass has turned to a yellowish-brown, the clouds were hanging in the snowy mountains and the sun was peaking from behind.
We arrived at the farm and started to get ready. Warm overalls were put on and Anna and me helped to fetch the horses and put the saddles on. After a short introduction we were all in the saddles and ready to set off into the Icelandic wilderness. The weather was still stable and our group of eight horses trottet along some path. For most of the people this was their first experience with horses =) Miriam couldn't stop giggling, Benni couldn't get his horse to move forward.... A lot of fun! At one point Benni's horse just turned around and started running back to the stable - Anna was quickly at hand and got the nasty animal back to our group. After some time everyone felt more at ease and we risked a small trott. Slowly but surely the weather started to change. The sky turned black and the clouds seemed to touch the ground. We were just canterring when a shower of hail caught us. It was so strong that we had to stop our horses, turn our back to it and wait for the 10min. untill it was over. The water was starting to get through our warm and thick overalls. Nothing we could change, so we continued our ride with adventures.
Rivers had to be crossed, fields passed... and this all frozen and wet all through!
Our 3 hour trip was shortened to 1.5h and we happily arrived back at the farm house. There we enjoyed a beer at the "cowboy bar". Back in the warmth everyone had a piece of delicious Icelandic cinnamon cake. All in all a great day!!!